1. Getting there That title is an homage to that melancholic movie "The Last Time I Saw Paris," which is loosely based on a story by and the life of F. Scott Fitzgerald. I love that sappy, melodrama. I must have seen it a dozen times. But, let me tell you about the first time I saw Paris. It was in the days when one considered air travel--especially trips across the Atlantic--as great adventures. One dressed up to travel then: I wore a suit and tie, as did most of men when they flew somewhere, and women dressed as if they were going to a party. I flew into Mexico City the night before the flight to Europe and stayed in a fashionable hotel on Reforma Avenue. It was a quarter past nine by the time I had settled into my room so I decided to go down to the lobby bar for a drink before I went to bed. I sat on a stool at the bar and ordered a scotch on the rocks. (I felt that if I ordered my usual drink, a beer, I'd look like the young "innocent abroad" I wa